Fleas and Ticks

 

One of the most common yet misunderstood problems facing your dog or cat is fleas. A basic understanding of this parasite will help enable you to better protect your animal.

 

It can take anywhere from 18 days to 20 months for a flea to complete an entire life cycle (from egg to adult). Only about 10% of this time is actually spent on your animal.

 

 

The adult female flea will lay her eggs on an animal. Because they are not attached, these eggs fall into rugs, furniture, the animal's bedding, and so on. Depending on warmth, moisture, and other environmental factors, the eggs will hatch in anywhere from nine days to seven months.

 

The eggs hatch into the eyeless, legless larvae. These larvae attach themselves to your animal, where they stay and feed for approximately one to two weeks. They then fall off, form a cocoon, and lay dormant for several weeks (or even several months). Once the environmental factors are correct, the adult flea emerges to feed and lay eggs.

 

 

Be especially aware of fleas during the summer months (which is flea season). If you notice your animal scratching excessively, especially in a few isolated areas, inspect your animal immediately. Fleas can be found on any part of your animal's body. However, they can be seen mostly around the base of the tail, on the belly, behind the ears, and between the toes. Look closely! They are only about 1/32 of an inch. Because of their small size, you will most probably encounter “flea dirt” rather than the fleas themselves. Flea dirt is the dark, gritty particles of specks found on your animal, and is a combination of dried blood and flea feces.

 

 

There are several products that are available to treat flea infestation. Before you implement a treatment plan, consult your veterinarian. The most effective is a flea dip, administered by your veterinarian. Flea powders, shampoos, and collars are also available, but have a varying degree of effectiveness. Whatever method you choose, use only ONE method at a time, and read all directions and warnings carefully.

Furthermore, because the fleas spend so little time on your animal, you must control them in your home as well. Vacuum thoroughly two to three times a week if you suspect fleas. This will remove any new eggs or larvae from your home. While vacuuming, drop a flea collar into the vacuum bag to kill these eggs and larvae, and remember to throw out the vacuum bag immediately. Also, you may consider purchasing a flea bomb. This is a commercial product which will fog an entire room, killing eggs and larvae. If you choose to bomb, follow all directions and warnings carefully, and remove all animals from the area during the process. Furthermore, if you have dogs, you must simultaneously treat your yard for maximum efficiency.

 

When people think of external parasites, they usually think of fleas. However, there is another concern. This “other” parasite is the tick. Ticks can cause a variety of health problems, including Lyme's disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and tick paralysis. Most tick related diseases have one constant: fever. If your animal experiences a fever, and has been know to be exposed to ticks, consult your veterinarian immediately.

 

 

The life cycle of the tick is slightly more complex than that of the flea. An adult tick can lay anywhere from 1,000 to 3,000 eggs at a time. In 2 - 7 weeks, these eggs hatch into the tick larvae. These larvae (sometimes called “seed ticks”) find a host on which to feed. They gorge for 3 - 12 days, and eventually fall to the ground to molt (for up to several weeks). The nymph then emerges to look for a host. Upon finding a host, the nymph gorges for 3 - 10 days, then falls off to molt once again. This final molting produces the adult tick, which will now feed, seek a mate, and lay eggs.

 

 

Tick season runs from early spring to midsummer. They are found mostly in wooded or grassy areas, but can also live in sheds or crevices in your house.

 

They will usually attach themselves to your animal in areas of the body with little or no hair such as the head, neck, ears, and feet. They can, however, be found on any part of your animal.

 

When a tick attaches itself, it first uses its scissor-like mouth parts to make an incision in the skin. It then inserts a spiny "tongue" into this incision, and begins to feed on the blood. Some types of ticks will even secrete a substance which acts as a type of cement to aid in attachment.

 

 

To remove a tick from your animal:

 

1. Gently grasp the tick as close to the animal's skin as possible. Do this by using blunt tweezers or your gloved finger.
2. Pull upward with slow, steady pressure. Do not twist, jerk, or yank the tick. This may cause the mouth parts to break off and remain imbedded in the animal, which may cause further irritation, and can lead to infection.
3. During this whole procedure, avoid squeezing or puncturing the tick. Doing this may allow toxins or bacteria to be released into the animal.
4. After removing the tick, soak its body in rubbing alcohol and/or burn the tick. Doing this will ensure that the toxins and bacteria which are present in the tick are destroyed.
5. Finally, dab the bite wound with alcohol.

 

 

The best prevention is avoidance. Avoid wooded or very grassy areas during tick season. Furthermore, inspect your animal daily. Tick collars and powders are not always effective, and may be harmful to your animals. Before using any pesticide, always read directions and warnings carefully. Use only one pesticide at a time. Always remember that the best course of action is to consult your veterinarian for specific advice.